soul surfing

"Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain."
Or surf in the rain...

Conditions yesterday evening were my favorite for photographing. The skies were wild and interesting, light was bound to be great, whether it reached the ground or not, and all I needed was to find something that I could use to illustrate the light. I decided to head up the hill with a fellow photography friend, but the rain beat me to it. Although I love walking in the rain, there are some things I have to admit aren't that much fun in it. But one doesn't need to go running for cover when it comes down hard - I traded my raincoat, pack and Brikon for my wetsuit, surfboard and Olympus and headed down to the beach.

Muizenberg was cooking yesterday yet was pleasantly uncrowded  - presumably the rain kept people away, despite the fact that surfing in the rain is one of the most wonderful feelings I've experienced. The water's been icy cold lately so I wore my hoodie for a change, but then discovered something interesting: I couldn't see how big the waves were while my hoodie was blocking my ears! I kept under-estimating them and getting tumbled until I removed the hoodie and could hear their real size! (Having the cold water through my hair felt much better too - more normal!)

The waves were huge (for Muzies) and I was pretty knackered long before I got to the back line but I doggedly kept at it, knowing that the smooth waters beyond would reward me with the rest I needed. (I'm not very good at paddling, but I'm sure that, as with everything, practice will improve technique.)

The skies were wildly beautiful with roiling dark clouds, and, when I finally reached the calm of the back line, a gap over the mountain shot an incredible beam of sunlight straight up into the sky. Storms may cause havoc, but without them I guess we would only have pretty bland and boring sunsets to enjoy! The wind blew on and off, so we were treated to the sight of massive spray arcing over the back of the waves one moment, and oily-smooth water the next. I spent most of the time paddling up and down playing with the camera, only catching the occasional wave, having decided my enjoyment was going to be more in catching the waves with my camera than my board. (I gave its shockproofness a pretty thorough testing this time as I'm sure it got quite banged about when I paddled for a wave or got tumbled by one - but kept happily snapping away!)

360 degree view - click to view large...

The light kept changing colour and tone, getting pinker and more steel-grey as the dusk deepend. It was difficult to leave, and as usual there was more than one "last wave", but eventually I gave in to my exhaustion and caught one in to shore... knowing there'd be more in the morning (which there was, and yes I was in it - sans camera this time!)

The Under Toad's eye-view of Muizenberg Peak.

Looking East towards Kalk Bay as a small swell rolls past between sets

Board and Peak...

Awesomeness embodied in a fine wave-spray

Sea and Sky

Just sky

Ahh! Beauty in wave form...
I was far beyond the back line at this stage, photographing the surfers with Muizenberg behind - this wave was massive (for Muizies) and I didn't have the balls to stay on the surface to photograph it!

Back of a wave

Last look...

Nature has powerful healing properties, for mind, body and soul, and I am always so grateful that I have such quick and easy access to a session in the sea or a stroll on the hill... and I hope you do to!